Posted by: kahlia | November 22, 2007

Old Delhi

 Back in Pahar Gangh, New Delhi, we stayed in equally dodgy accommodation.  Slept in again after our late night, but eventually arose to a dubious non-vegetarian thali across the road.  With few hours remaining of daylight, we arranged a tour to the Red Fort, Chandi Chowk, and the mosque nearby.  Unfortunately, as he spoke no English these plans fell apart with the driver apparently thinking the price bargained was for a one way trip to the Red Fort only.  Not that 90Rs is too bad a rip off, but it’s not a good price…  Worked out all for the best anyway.  We walked into the fort and through the museums (so not my thing) and spent an hour or so wishing these 2 annoying Indian youths would stop talking to us but being too polite to simply say “go away” before exiting and arranging a cyclo tour of Chandi Chowk market.  Old Delhi is huge, and I was tired, so as bad as I feel sitting down while someone is peddling hard to pull me on a bicycle with no gears, I justified that this was how the man earned a mostly honest living.  And by taking an overpriced trip, we were effectually feeding his children… It turns out, this is a fantastic way to see this enormous market.  And this market is my India highlight so far.  Beats the Taj Mahal by far for me.  We went through the Silver market with amazingly intricate silver detailing on vases, horns, and all of the old world india silver work I’d imagined.  We went through a tailoring section with more ribbons, embroidery, sequins, beads and beadwork, crocheting, lace, bejewelled ropes of precious metals, fabrics piped with real gold twine than I can fathom.  Why does Australia import from China and Thailand?  They have nothing on this.  Fabrics so overburdened with sequins and embroidery and beadwork that in western society I can’t even think of a situation appropriate to wear them if you tried to make them into a dress.  I can only imagine that these comprise the formal wear of Saris in India.  This detail would be required to top the extravagant daytime Saris for special occasions and bridal wear etc.  After this we pedalled through the silk market where the mainstay of Sari fabric was found.  How could I choose if I lived her?  So many colours, and fabrics, and details!  I think I would have to be loaded to live in India, because these things are expensive!  The spice market was extravagant, but this is Adam’s arena.  We passed snack vendors hand slicing potatoes for potato chips, and pulling some sort of hard candy on an Indian style confectioners hook (big dirty hook out in a dirty, dusty laneway).  The candy lasted like brittle fairy floss and was eventually mixed with some sort of wheatmeal and made into a sugar biscuit thing.  But who cares about that, I bought 100g of delicious cashew nut brittle for 10Rs!  And then unfortunately ate it all within the evening.  Not sure if the bellyache I have today is due to my gluttony or the all of the generally unhygienic food I ate throughout the day.  At least neither Adam nor I yet have succumbed to Delhi Belly.


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